Living the dream | A British girl in Positano Amalfi

Positano Amalfi campania, italy

Positano Amalfi. A guest Post by Nicki Storey creator of the blog Figs and Lemons. Published 15 March, 2016

From London to Positano Amalfi

Positano Amalfi
Sunset over Positano

At the beginning of 1999 I decided to take time out from London and spend a few months in Italy to learn the language. I never meant to stay for good but when you choose somewhere as beautiful as the Amalfi Coast it can be hard to leave.

In the winter season (from November until Easter) Positano Amalfi is a quiet sleepy village with hardly any visitors. I spend a lot of time with friends, hiking the mountain pathways, cooking together and taking occasional day trips to  explore Naples. Sometimes when the weather is warm and sunny we will spend the day lazing on the empty beach. In fact Christmas Day was such a mild sunny day that we changed our plans last minute and all went down to the beach for a barbeque!

There are also various events planned throughout the winter to keep people entertained, for example a 2 day treasure hunt in January, Carnevale in February and a spring Festival on the beach in March.

At Easter the town wakes up and all the shops, restaurants and hotels start reopening. The town transforms into a bustling tourist resort and the visitors start arriving in droves.

One of my favourite things to do which I recommend to anyone who can swim is kayaking along the coast. I have my own kayak and my dog loves to come with me, sitting on my lap or balancing on the back. Along the coast there are lots of little beaches to pull into and quite a few caves to paddle into and explore. Some caves have the same light effect as the blue grotto in Capri, except they are free to enter and there are no crowds inside. There are Kayaks and stand up paddle boards available to rent from most beaches.

Positano Amalfi
Kayaking in the water of Positano

Positano also is a great place for rock climbing with around 300 routes to choose from in the area. For more information contact me.

Where to eat:

Many friends come to stay throughout the summer and we all love to sit on the jetty for drinks in the early evening, sometimes followed by takeaway pizza from the Covo Bar. We eat dinner out at least once a week, some of my favourite restaurants are Mediterraneo, Bar Bruno, Wine Dark House and La Tagliata.

For lunch I will often stop off for a healthy salad or smoothie at Casa e Bottega. Beach lunches happen a lot, either at Da Ferdinandos or Da Adolfos.

Food to try:

  1. Mozzarella grilled on local lemon leaves,
  2. zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and mozzarella,
  3. finocchietto (a fennel version of limoncello and highly underrated),
  4. totani (a local pink squid) cooked either with pasta or potatoes,
  5. pesce bandiera (a local fish, usually grilled with balsamic vinegar)

Local Tips:

I often get asked which are the best months to visit the Amalfi Coast. Well, it depends what you want from your trip. May and June are the best months for lovely weather and plants, flowers and things in bloom. Wisteria, trailing roses, hydrangeas, jasmine and more all flower in these months and it is well worth visiting the gardens in Ravello at this time.

July and August are very hot and August is very busy, but I find that this is when the magic happens. Standing high above town on a moonlit August evening, looking down at the lights of the luxury yachts and boats twinking in the harbour is a wonderful experience. Even better if you manage to have an evening boat trip along the coast with a midnight swim in a moonlit bay.

In September it cools down a bit although it is still quite busy. There is a big ballet festival at the beginning of the month and a great fish festival on Fornillo beach on the last Saturday of the month with live music, fireworks and lots of fresh fish to eat.

October is a popular month for hiking, the pathway of the gods being the most walked route, although there are plenty of other paths to explore.

Of course Positano is also perfectly situated for day trips to the nearby towns of Amalfi, Ravello, Sorrento and Pompeii. Amalfi and Sorrento are reachable by ferry, taxis can be hired for a daily rate, but it can also be fun to hire a moped or small car and go exploring by yourselves.

Oh, and one more thing…did I mention the steps? Positano is built vertically on a steep mountainside so there are steps, lots of them.

Positano Amalfi
Steps of Positano

You.Cannot.Avoid.The.Steps.

So embrace them! Challenge yourselves; see how many you can do before you admit defeat. And however many you have to your hotel or villa, it will never be as many as I have from the road to my house, nearly 500 of the damned things. So  when you’re sweaty and panting and don’t think you can take any more climbing just think of me, when its raining with my 500 steps, 4 bags of shopping and a child that wants to be carried!

If you want to join me for daily walks around Positano Amalfi, hikes in the mountains above and kayak trips along the coast follow me on Snapchat @nikinpos.

A note by Tourist by Chance

I would like to thank Nicki so much for taking the time to provide this awesome piece on her ‘adopted’ home, Positano Amalfi. Check out her amazing pictures on Facebook and her blog Figs and Lemons. Trust me, they will want to make you leave your home and move there too…I was about to and I live in Rome! 😉 

If you liked what you read, show Nicki and Tourist by Chance some love and share this great story. Do not forget to follow us both on social media, as we will really feed your Italian Wanderlust! 🙂 Thank you all for stopping by and please do share your photos of Positano Amalfi, if you are there or heading over there soon!

Comments

  1. Pingback: Campania, Italy by Tourist by Chance

  2. Aloma foggo

    Your lovely photos of positano and your writing made me feel like i was there! That is why i
    decided to go to positano and sèe it for myself last easter. Thank you nicki.
    It took me a while to walk down those 500 steps but i did it!

  3. nonsoloamore

    I was this summer at the Amalfi Coast. I’m lucky because my aunt has a house right there. 🙂
    I love your post and this great photos. It reminded me this beautiful summer!!

    1. Post
      Author
      touristbychance

      Archana, sharing such posts, the pleasure is all mine! It would be pretty cool kayaking along the Positano coast wouldn’t it! 🙂 Thank you for stopping by and a big Ciao from Rome 🙂

  4. Crazy Travelista

    Ahh this brings back such cases great memories of Positano! It was absolutely a dream! I could have stayed forever. Although those steps almost killed me haha. I love going to Italian cities during the offseason, it’s so much more enjoyable! I didn’t try any hikes there but would love to have a second chance. I can’t wait to go back!

    1. Post
      Author
      touristbychance

      You really have seen a lot of Italy 🙂 So great to see someone with so much passion for Il Bel Paese! And I am all for traveling Italy in the off-season, in fact it is when I do most of my traveling! Otherwise it can get chaotic. I hope you get your second chance in Positano and hope to read about it on your blog soon 🙂

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